Strike plate pro#
Pro tip: A half-round file matches the curve of the latch hole. or less, remove the strike plate and enlarge its hole with a file. If the latch misses the strike plate hole by 1/8 in. Of course, having these in place may well increase resale value if you're thinking of selling at some point in the future, so that's something to consider. If long screws don’t solve the too-high or too-low problem, measure the misalignment of the lipstick marks on the strike plate. I'm presuming none of the current residents need the adaptations. You could, of course, replace them with "normal" strike plates, but that would probably require filling in the hole in the frame then mortising for the new strike plate (and would be the subject for a whole new question). If you just laughed, then you know that the strike plate is the small metal thing. (OK, fine, loosened, screws really don't tighten themselves.) You may want to ensure that screws are tight on the non-working ones. When is a plate big enough to hold a door closed. It could also be that the screws have either loosened or tightened with some seasonal wood swelling. I've use both of those in spray form and they can be a bit messy, so taking it outside to spray the latch means the mess is on the grass or some newspaper/drop cloth instead of all over the interior wall.
Strike plate free#
With that part off, you may be able to determine that there's something in there jamming it, or it may just need a shot of dry-silicone or graphite lubricant to free up the movement. I'd imagine that the little swinging plate isn't moving as freely as it should. I'm not sure in what way they're "not working properly", but I'd suggest taking the latch mechanism piece (the top two screws of the latch) out and taking a look at that part. I guess the point is that they "close slightly more easily than regular latches", yet they still require pushing down on the ADA-compliant lever handle to open. The doors also have concealed spring-loaded door closers built-in.Ī couple of these are now not working properly but I'm not sure whether to try to replace them with something more conventional or try and fix them or if there's even a good reason for them being there. These close slightly more easily than regular latches but otherwise create redundancy in the latch mechanism. They have the letters "CBuk" stamped on them which yielded nothing useful on a search. The metal box is then affixed to into a recessed metal bracket in the door frame. These strike units comprise a thin metal box which contains a rotating piece of metal that moves up when a door closes on it and then falls back down when the door is closed. Instead, they close onto these curious moving strike "plates". I'm not sure if this is part of the adaptations but the door latches don't close onto regular strike plates. For example, there is wiring in the house to support the installation of a lift and the landings are wider than usual.
My house was originally built so it could be easily adapted for people with disabilities.
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